If today it has become very difficult to negotiate the price of a new car, as demand exceeds supply, it is still possible to negotiate the price of a used car, even if here again, the scarcity of models in the second-hand market (especially models with less 2 years old) makes things more complicated.
The fact is that even today the seller, professional or private, is used to maintaining a small “negotiation margin”. Also, he is not necessarily aware (often in good faith) of the amount needed to do body touch-ups or part replacements. In addition, he can attribute a fanciful sentimental value to his car, ignore a bad reputation for reliability or a fatal lack of love for the model, synonymous with discount. For these last points, only private sellers are concerned, professionals are, on the contrary, well informed, but they can expect you not to be…
For you, the potential buyer, any detail will therefore be a pretext to “devalue”. That’s the game. And without going after the pet either (although at the moment it may become useful), every defect or flaw will be used to lessen the seller’s claims. For this you can also be helped, if you don’t know anything about it, by a more specialized knowledge in terms of mechanics.
We are therefore going to address four main negotiation levers, which absolutely must be used when buying a used car: the aesthetic aspect, the maintenance and repairs carried out (or not, it is mainly where ‘you have to dig’), all related to the dimension and its precise adjustment, and the central question of the type of carburettor, and the Crit’Air sticker affixed to the windshield. With our advice, sometimes it’s easy to cut a price by 10-15%. And a lot more sometimes, but it’s harder. Of course, don’t expect to win €1,000 on a €3,000 car either, but with another €10,000 it’s possible, especially if the seller is in a hurry and you prove to him that you have ways to buy it fast.
Let’s start with the “green” fuel and sticker aspects
A few years ago, it was much less important than it is today to negotiate a price. But today, with buyers losing interest in diesel and increasingly drastic traffic restrictions, allows you to have new negotiation weapons🇧🇷
In fact, some sellers still don’t realize that, to exaggerate, “nobody wants a diesel anymore“It is obviously a little misleading to say this, knowing that diesel model sales still represent 50% of global used vehicle sales.
But that’s not really what buyers want. But diesels, having accounted for up to 75% of new car sales, are now present in the mass market. To sell them, sellers are now forced to sell them🇧🇷 Or, at least, they can no longer outperform them compared to gasoline models.
So it’s up to you, faced with a salesperson who isn’t aware of these developments, to make him come to his senses. Yes, he’ll have a hard time selling his diesel model, even more so if it’s pre-2011 (and therefore sporting a Crit’Air 3 sticker or worse, Crit’Air 4 before 2006). For several reasons.
1 / You will be in fierce competition with many sellers, who also want to resell their model, to switch to gasoline, hybrid or electric. However, more competition = lower prices, as everyone knows.
2/ Traffic restrictions are scary. And if your vehicle, diesel or gasoline this time, displays the “bad stickers”, whether it’s Crit’Air 3, 4 or 5, it will be less successful and harder to sell. Because it will be banned from the ZFE (low emission zones) more or less in the short term.
This can be seen in the car ratings and prices displayed. A petrol-powered Renault Clio 3, for example, quickly goes from €4,000 to €5,500 on average from 2005 to 2006, and thus from Crit’Air 3 to Crit’Air 2, a much more sought after vignette.
Therefore, do not hesitate to present these arguments, in order to save several hundred euros more in relation to the displayed price, even if this already takes (a little) into account. Concretely, a diesel model can no longer sell for more than its gasoline equivalent.
And a Crit’Air 3 model cannot sell for as much as a Crit’Air 2, for example, even if they are only 2 months apart (December 2010 versus January 2011, for example, for a diesel).